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into liquid

Watching the surf film "Step Into Liquid." I guess this saw some mainstream play, but it feels like most other surf films, though it is a tad higher budget. A little too philosophical at times, but I'll forgive Dana Brown. The reality is that people either get it or they don't. I know some who won't set foot in the ocean. Others who used to surf but drifted away. I'm proud/sad to say that I still hit the lineup when I can, and should do it a lot more often (I would if I didn't have to drive all the way to Zuma for decent water quality). There is nothing like riding a wave. Period. And until you've done it, it can't be described. And some, even after experiencing it, for whatever reason don't go back. Like they say, there's a butt for every seat...

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This page contains a single entry from the blog posted on May 29, 2008 11:43 PM.

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